Get to know Karnataka 

10/06/2023

KARNATAKA - Hector Dsouza

Dassehra in Mysore in Karnataka are inevitably interlinked to each other. The ten day festival celebrating the victory of good over evil is celebrated with pomp, glamor & gaiety with a number of fascinating events and exhibitions including the brilliant illumination of the Mysore City Palace at night, display of the magnificent Golden Howdah (Throne), an impressive procession including elephants and floats leading from City Palace to Banimantap Extension on the last day. The event owes much of its existence due to the patronage of the royal family during the early years after independence. Today its brings in thousands of visitors each year, with even the seasonal rain of October, failing to deter arrivals.

Home to six world heritage sites and bordering neighboring Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Kerala, Karnataka owes its name to its regional language Kannada. From a historical perspective it has seen a large number of Hindu, Moslem and Buddhist religions. The first emperor Chandragupta Maurya (4th century BC) converted to Jainism and meditated at Sravanbelgola, now an imposing pilgrimage site with an imposing statue of Lord Bahubali. The Chalukyas ruled from 6-8th century A.D. Between the 11-14th century the Hoysalas seized control leaving behind fabulous monuments, temples at Belur, Halebid and Somnathpur. Muhamad Bin Tuglaq held fort in Northern Karnataka in the 13th century. The rulers of Vijaynagar had control from Arabian Sea to the Bay of Bengal, ending in a triangular pattern at Cape Comorin. In the southern part, the Wodeyars took control of Mysore and Srirangapatnam, losing it to Hyder Ali who in turn was defeated, losing control to the British in the late 18th century. The Wodeyars were reinstalled, governing until 1956, when Mysore and Madras presidency were merged.

In the decades gone by, Karnataka relied more on `word of mouth' publicity to rake in tourists, thereby creating a band of faithful visitors who went on exploring one interesting circuit to the next. In fact the day return trip from Bangalore to Mysore was introduced five decades ago with stops at the toy making center at Chanapatna, followed by Srirangapatna named after the temple of Vishnu Sri Ranganathaswami, site of the famous and fierce battle in 1799 between Tipu Sultan and Lord Wellesley, who was in charge of the British forces. A dome shaped mausoleum built by Tipu Sultan in memory of his father Hyder Ali lies close to the fort attracting many visitors. Serene, picturesque Ranganthittu Bird Sanctuary attracts water birds – darting cormorants, listless crocodiles, nesting herons as well as migratory birds. For fun lovers a coracle ride at the Sangam (confluence) serves as a delightful outdoor activity. Off the beaten track, east of Mysore, lies a spectacular Hoysala Temple in non-descript Somnathpur with magnificent interiors as well as exteriors. Religious worshippers, art, architecture lovers congregating at this site are amply rewarded.

Inspiring moments are for the asking at the Indo-Sarcenic City Palace, Zoological Gardens, Gothic St Philomena's Church, Nandi Bull Temple in mesmerizing `City of Gardens and Palaces' Mysore with the illuminated dancing fountains at Brindavan Gardens, culminating a fruitful day of sightseeing. With no dearth of accommodation of international standards, ranging from stays at Palace Hotels, to Heritage Hotels, three star and tour class hotels, hanging up the boots for the night at Mysore isn't a bad idea at all.

Southern Jungle Delights  

Sunrise over an inviting cup of coffee followed by a jeep ride into the deep recesses of the Bandipur Tiger Reserve in the southern most part of Karnataka is a fine excursion to spot the majestic indian tiger, pack of wild dogs, elephant herd of the forlorn leopard. Bandipur, Masinagudi bordering Tamil Nadu are part of the same exotic forest that stretches west to Nagarhole and south to Madhumalai. Teeming with biodiversity, countless varieties of avian species, the silence of the magnificent forest is broken only by the sound of cicadas and fireflies glowing in the darkness of night. Northwest of Bandipur and in the shadow of the western ghats, Nagarhole National Park was once the Maharaja's reserved forest which was de-notified in 1955. Teeming with elephants, antelopes, bison, wild dog, impressive count of 200 plus bird species, endless variety of flora, this moist deciduous forest is cut across by the Kabini River, which is a tributary of the River Cauvery. Staying at the Kabini River Lodge, alongside a river and exploring the forest in a rowing boat is a brilliant idea and understandably a fine reason for taking a halt at Nagarhole.

Mountain Calling!  The magic never ends, though the borders of the park are crossed. Northwest of Nagarhole and the in the land of the blue hills, - Nilgris, lies the coffee growing capital of India, Coorg &Chikmagalur. Bountiful rainfall, fertile soil, sloping grounds, deft hands ensure Arabica and Robusta coffee plantations grow in full measure, alongwith cardamom, black pepper and vanilla. Mercara the capital of Coorg, Santikopa, Ganikopa and Virajpet offer romantic hideaways, cozy homestays and a handful of resorts. Nature loving Coorg is also the honeymoon capital of South India. Awesome views, miles of solitude, endless stretches of green and lush mountain forests on the horizon ensure the region lives up to its sobriquet. The rugged elephant camp at Dubare along with the breath-taking Golden Temple of Kushalnagar add flavor to the spice of Coorg and well worth adding to the must visit `bucket list' sites.

Ocean Beckons!    Skirting the coast of South India, Karnataka throws up a number of beaching options with Malpe, Honavar, Gokarna and Karwar ruling the roost in terms of fine quality sand, water and scenic settings. A few minute boat ride away lies the enchanting St. Mary's Island. Gokarna, Ankola, Karwar hog the limelight for discerning tourists in search of virgin beaches. Water sport is the mainstay of beaches in Karwar with several options for active beach goers. The well-traveled can go island hoping in this part. Towards the east of Mangalore, stretching uptoHalebid in Karnataka lie a string of temples and pilgrim spots. A large number of rituals relating to birth, life and abdication of soul from body are performed at the Krishna Temple at Udupi and Dharamstala. Further east, Belur and Halebid both lying in the vicinity of the sleepy town of Hassan have impeccably well carved, preserved temples built by Hoysala Kings, attracting hordes of visitors. The 18-meter-high statue of Bahubali is renowned for followers of Buddhism

Northern Gems:    Partly monumental, part ruins, Northern Karnataka hosts the world-famous heritage sites dating back to the 14th century, spreading over 28 square kilometers in scenic Hampi. On its southern bank flows the Tungabhadra River. It's possible to hear musical notes on colonnaded pillars of the exquisitely carved Vithala Temple, a stone chariot with wheels that rotate stands as stoic witness inside the Temple Complex. Surprises never cease at Hampi, be it the Queens Bath in the Royal Enclosure or the nine storeyVirupaksha Temple; for the awestruck there is the Kings Balance, followed by the huge monolithic statues of Narasimha and Ganesh. The cradle of Hindu Temple architecture can be found at Aihole, the capital of Chukyan rulers and housing 140 temples created over a period of 600 years starting from 6th century A.D. Temple styles ranging from Dravidian, Jain, Buddhist, Nagara, Rekhanagara can be found at this stunning World Heritage Site along with Sivaite temples at Pattadakal, yet another heritage site. Badami completes the troika of `must see' sites in Northern Karnataka with its intricately carved caves as well as Hindu, Jain Temples leaving indelible, lasting impressions.