Get to Know Madhya Pradesh

Madhya Pradesh - The Heart of India :- Hector Dsouza

More rural than urban, Madhya Pradesh `breathes' a sigh of relief with brilliant landscapes, lower density of population, lush green forests and a prehistoric world heritage site at Bhimbetka.A fine stay with many offerings Madhya Pradesh is strategically located in Central India, and is commonly referred to as the `Heart of India.' Madhya Pradesh has its band of regular visitors who have been coming over for decades. Khajuraho known for its brilliantly carved temples , often combined with the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra, Jaipur witnesses large amount of inbound travelers from the seventies. Renowned Tiger Forest Reserves Kanha as well as Bandhavgarh, Panna see many tourists especially during the summer months when sighting of predators like the majestic Tiger and Leopard becomes much easier. So impressive has been the record of these parks with their conservation efforts, incredible sightings have been recorded. Interestingly tribals like Gonds, Baighas and Bhils living on the periphery of these forests practice animism and worship of the tiger, contributing in no mean measure to the conservation efforts.

Historically, the state has rarely seen a struggle for power, though its history dates back to the Stone Age with the discovery of rock paintings and stone artifacts. From the tme of Ashoka to the 17th century, it witnessed dynastic rule. The Chandelas ruled Khajuraho in northern MP in the 10th century building over 70 magnificent stone temples. Akbar conquered Gwalior in the mid 16th century. The Scindia and Holkar dynasties held control over Gwalior and Indore in the 18th century. The state was named Central Provinces under the British rule. After independence the state of Madhya Pradesh was created.

Boasting of delightful scenery, the gorges and ravines located between Jhansi and Gwalior in the northern part bring in experienced travelers, keen on having a taste of the rugged, mysterious. The Vindhyan Mountain Range dominates the state running diagonally across, while the the largest river, Narmada ensures surrounding plains are green and fertile. Within the Satpura range lie the deciduous forests containing an astounding range of sal and teak trees. There is no dearth of floral and avian species, impressive sightings are recorded all year around.

Discovering the Past

Madhya Pradesh is best explored from September to March, distances being large it's best to go about being selective and touring in circuits. Capital city Bhopal is surrounded by gentle hills, Upper and Lower Lakes. Predominantly Muslim, rulers from the 19th century left behind many impressive monuments. Taj-ul-Masjid (one of India's largest mosques), Jama Masjid and Moti Masjid bring in large numbers religious devotees as well as tourists. South of Bhopal, Bhojpur having the largest stone lingam is a Shivaite Temple, can be combined with an excursion to Bhimbetka. A stunning world heritage site, it contains cave paintings in over 1000 shelters dating back to the Stone Age. Pebble tools have been excavated suggesting stone implements were used in these caves. The excavations suggest existence of human life from Acheulian to Middle Paleolithic, and from Upper Paleolithic to Meseolithic period; together this constitutes an unbelievable 40,000 years. More surprises are in store on this circuit. 50 kms northeast of Bhopal lies the Great Stupa at Sanchi built by Emperor Ashoka in 3rd century BC (World Heritage Site). The complex in itself consists of a number of monasteries, the Mauryan and Chaityan Temple, prayer halls and dinning halls. Four impressive gates at four ends: north, south, east and west with intricate carvings about the life of Buddha, the incarnations, his Birth and the Wheel form the entrance to this well preserved brick and mortar monument.

Brilliance on Stone

Madhya Pradesh is a state `carved' in stone, amply reinforced at Khajuraho. Built by the Chandelas in 10th century, the temples in the Western Complex bear testimony to some outstanding works of temple art. Built to resemble Mount Kailash, most of its 22 surviving temples consist of an outer hall, assembly hall and inner sanctum. Life art forms, scenes from daily life, incarnations, fantastical inspirations, erotic sculptures are seen here. Lakshmana, Kandariya Mahadev Temple, built on raised stone platforms are perhaps the most impressive with brilliant carvings on its exterior walls. Moving west, situated on the Betwa River banks, lies an impressive fort palace in non-descript Orchha. Sombre temples and royal chhatris dot the countryside in the surrounding village making for idyllic settings. Northwest of Orchha is a bustling city Gwalior, with an impressive fort overlooking the town, as well as palaces and museums belonging to the Scindia family. Best seen during the morning hours, Gwalior Fort is best explored on foot, throwing up a number of surprises with an intricately carved Saas-Bahu Temple, Jauhar Tank and the Man Mandir Palace. Those keen on listening to its history can opt for the evening Sound-n-Light Show.

Quietly flows the Narmada under the shadow of the 30 meter high rocks on either side of the river in Bhedaghat, 22 kms from Jabalpur in Central Madhya Pradesh. Best seen at moonlight these rocks create an ethereal effect throwing out brilliant colors. Pilgrims come in hordes to the river banks at Bhedaghat was as Ujjain which holds the Kumbh Mela, once every 12 years. Indore, Mandu and Omkareshwar in the southwestern part of MP form yet another intriguing circuit with overnights recommended at Indore and Mandu. The Mandu fort contains a delightful collection of monuments, consisting of five palaces and tomb of Dariya Khan. The strange quiet of Mandu, its inspiring monuments at the Fort make Mandu a must-visit site for the discerning, while Omkareswar draws in pilgrims at it lies on the confluence of the Narmada and Kaveri river. Formerly ruled by the Holkar family, Indore is best known for its Sheesh Mahal or Mirror Palace.