Enchanting Kashmir

Jehangir's comparison of Kashmir to `Paradise' has rarely proved visitors wrong, many vouch for it. To the east and covering 98,000 sq. kilometers lies the stunning high altitude desert of Ladakh and Zanskar. To the southwest of Kashmir lies the third district, Jammu, renowned for Vaishnodevi Temple, and visited by millions of Hindu pilgrims each year. These three districts together form the state of Jammu and Kashmir which witnessed a record breaking 1.3 million tourist arrivals in 2012.

What makes this Himalayan state unique from the other Indian states? The reasons are not hard to comprehend, considering the state, particularly the Vale of Kashmir and Ladakh lie between some of the highest mountains in the world. Ladakh lies wedged between the Great Himalyan in the south east and the Karakoram mountain range (north east) within which also lies the Ladakh and Zanskar mountain range, containing treacherous passes. Kashmir is located between the Pir Panjal Range and the Himalayas. Life and tourism revolve around lakes and rivers, be it the serene Dal & Nagin Lake in Srinagar or the turquoise Pangong Lake, and life sustaining Indus river in Ladakh. Shikara rides and houseboats originated on the banks of the Dal & Nagin lake, off late these are found in different parts of India, though, none can match the beauty and atmosphere of the rarefied surroundings of Kashmir. At the other end, river rafting on the Indus from Leh to Nemo in Ladakh is a one-of-its-kind experience that is rarely forgotten. Grade III and IV rapids ensure the ride isn't too easy and not too difficult.

What makes this Himalayan state unique from the other Indian states? The reasons are not hard to comprehend, considering the state, particularly the Vale of Kashmir and Ladakh lie between some of the highest mountains in the world. Ladakh lies wedged between the Great Himalyan in the south east and the Karakoram mountain range (north east) within which also lies the Ladakh and Zanskar mountain range, containing treacherous passes. Kashmir is located between the Pir Panjal Range and the Himalayas. Life and tourism revolve around lakes and rivers, be it the serene Dal & Nagin Lake in Srinagar or the turquoise Pangong Lake, and life sustaining Indus river in Ladakh. Shikara rides and houseboats originated on the banks of the Dal & Nagin lake, off late these are found in different parts of India, though, none can match the beauty and atmosphere of natural surroundings in Kashmir. At the other end, river rafting on the Indus from Leh to Nemo in Ladakh is a one-of-its-kind experience that is rarely forgotten. Grade III and IV rapids ensure the ride isn't too easy and not too difficult.

Experiencing Moonland

Predominantly Buddhist, Ladakh has seen an increasing number of tourists over the past two decades keen on absorbing natural beauty on one of the highest inhabited plateaus in the world. One has to fly across the spectacular Great-Himalayan mountain range to enter Leh, the capital of Ladakh, and home to Mahayana and Hinayana schools of Buddhism. The flight in itself is magnificent considering the splendid snow-capped mountain views. India's largest district has an interesting theory about its formation. Eons ago, the highest landmass on Earth comprising of Tibet and Ladakh was at the bottom of a vast shallow ocean, the Tethyan Sea. This separated the continent of Eurasia from the Indian Subcontinent. Geophysical changes caused the ocean shelf to rise and collide against the continental shelf, causing the formation of the Himalayas. Fossils found here are a mix of sea life and tropical greenlands, with the fossil of a prehistoric sea animal reemphasizing the regions unique relationship with the sea.

Ladakh has much to offer to the intriguing visitor; whether its watching a game of Polo in Leh town or the sight of the old Morvian church built in 1885. The striking view of both the Zanskar and Indus valley from Thikse monastery, or the sight of Brahmini Ducks on the Tso Morari Lake; the silence inside incense filled monasteries or a cascading rafting ride on the Indus. Ladakh never fails to enthuse and to good measure. Ladakh is also a treasure trove of monasteries, in fact monastery hopping could consume half a holiday! Isolated from each other, standing over spectacular ridges, these offer stunning views of surrounding areas. Be it Spituk, Phyang, Shey or Stok Palace in the close vicinity of the capital, Leh. Formidable Lamayaru monastery situated on the Leh-Kargil route is located in a land resembling the surface of the moon. Reminiscent of the Indian style of architecture, the Alchi monastery has paintings on walls dating back to the 11th century. Standing tall on the Leh-Upshi road, lies the imposing complex of the Thikse monastery with the largest statue of Maitreya Buddha. Built in 17th century by the Red Hat sect Hemis lies hidden from view, though, it contains rare manuscripts and marvellous inscriptions. Masked dance festivals at monasteries at different times of the year are some of the finest festival found across India. Give it a miss at your own peril.

The land of high passes (La-dakh) offers ample scope for adventure. A three day jeep safari passing through rugged mountain beauty and hot water springs leads to Tso Morari - a brackish lake, everchanging shades on placid waters and bird watchers paradise. It is not uncommon to find Changpas or nomadic wandering tribes in this region living in smoke blackened tents, constantly in search of grazing grounds for their Pashmina goat herd- an invaluable livelihood, considering the sheared wool commands astounding prices. The journey back can be done via the Tsokar Lake and Tanglang-la, the third highest mountain pass in the universe. At a lower altitude and 140 kms. from Leh, the Nubra Valley beckons visitors to Panamik and Deskit, not before passing Khardungla, the second highest mountain pass in the world. It's the only pass in India with guaranteed viewing of snow from close quarters all year around. With interesting sand dune formations, double humped camels, warmer temperatures, sulphurous hot springs and the view of Siachen Glacier, Nubra Valley offers an elevating & humbling experience.

The Valley Beckons

It's all about passes, drives, treks and mountains in this wondrous and magical state. Yet another magnificent journey from Leh to Srinagar over dangerous passes, the magical Zanskar, past an ancient trading post Kargil and the coldest village Drass brings the traveller to Srinagar. En-route there is also a distinct change in color from dark and dusty brown to seductive green. Entering the Kashmir Valley at Sonmarg - a land flowing with orchards and mountain opens a new windows and new vistas. The journey to Amarnath for viewing the famous Shiva lingam in a low cut cave begins here. Hundreds of thousands converge in the month of June for an arduous journey culminating in a long trek to the shrine.

Less than 100 kms. west lies the capital city Srinagar (beautiful city), founded in sixth century AD by Raja Pravarasen. Divided into two parts by the river Jhelum, the capital revolves around waterways and gardens with two lakes, Dal & Nagin hogging the limelight. Shikara rides are plentiful on Dal Lake, while houseboats lie anchored to the banks. Offering exotic accommodation options, houseboats cater to all categories of tourists on an all inclusive plan. Basking on the deck, watching daily life unfold as traders trade their wares on shikaras, scanning the horizon for mountain peaks, listening to distant sounds of the wandering city, or simply taking a nap after reading the first twenty pages of a favourite bestseller are wholesome activities that holiday makers could indulge. The all inclusive plan ensures hot and delicious cuisine is just a wooden step away!

Sightseeing options range from walking to Shankarcharya temple built by Emperor Ashoka in 2nd century B.C. to visiting the Hazratbal Mosque, known for preserving a hair of Prophet Mohammed. Gardens, though, rule the roost on land with Shalimar Bagh bringing in multitudes each day. Built by Jehangir for his wife Nurjehan, it consists of symmetrical terraces connected by a water channel. Nishat Bagh and Chashma Shahi (built around a spring) are smaller gardens with their own unmistakable charm and splendor. There is no denying the Mughals loved Srinagar with rulers making significant contribution in creating gardens of impeccable quality. Their existence to this day is in itself a proud testimony.

Hector Dsouza